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Voyage of The Paper Canoe

by N. H. Bishop

A GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNEY OF 2500 MILES FROM QUEBEC TO THE GULF OF MEXICO, DURING THE YEARS 1874-5.

BY NATHANIEL H. BISHOP,

AUTHOR OF "ONE THOUSAND MILES WALK ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA" AND CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE BOSTON SOCIETY OF NATURAL HISTORY AND OF THE NEW YORK ACADEMY OF SCIENCES.

BOSTON: LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS. NEW YORK: CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM. 1878.

TO THE SUPERINTENDENT. ASSISTANTS, AIDS, AND ALL EMPLOYEES OF THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY BUREAU, THE "VOYAGE OF THE PAPER CANOE" IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,

AS A SLIGHT EVIDENCE OF THE APPRECIATION BY ITS AUTHOR FOR THEIR INTELLIGENT EFFORTS AND SELF-DENYING LABORS IN THE SERVICE OF THEIR COUNTRY, SO PATIENTLY AND SKILFULLY PERFORMING, UNDER MANY DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS.

INTRODUCTION.

The author left Quebec, Dominion of Canada, July 4, 1874, with a single assistant, in a wooden canoe eighteen feet in length, bound for the Gulf of Mexico. It was his intention to follow the natural and artificial connecting watercourses of the continent in the most direct line southward to the gulf coast of Florida, making portages as seldom as possible, to show how few were the interruptions to a continuous water-way for vessels of light draught, from the chilly, foggy, and rocky regions of the Gulf of St. Lawrence in the north, to the semi-tropical waters of the great Southern Sea, the waves of which beat upon the sandy shores of the southernmost United States. Having proceeded about four hundred miles upon his voyage, the author reached Troy, on the Hudson River, New York state, where for several years E. Waters & Sons had been perfecting the construction of paper boats.

The advantages in using a boat of only fifty-eight pounds weight, the strength and durability of which had been well and satisfactorily tested, could not be questioned, and the author dismissed his assistant, and "paddled his own canoe" about two thousand miles to the end of the journey. Though frequently lost in the labyrinth of creeks and marshes which skirt the southern coast of his country, the author's difficulties were greatly lessened by the use of the valuable and elaborate charts of the United States Coast Survey Bureau, to the faithful executers of which he desires to give unqualified and grateful praise.

To an unknown wanderer among the creeks, rivers, and sounds of the coast, the courteous treatment of the Southern people was most gratifying. The author can only add to this expression an extract from his reply to the address of the Mayor of St. Mary's, Georgia, which city honored him with an ovation and presentation of flags after the completion of his voyage:

"Since my little paper canoe entered southern waters upon her geographical errand, -- from the capes of the Delaware to your beautiful St. Mary's, -- I have been deeply sensible of the value of Southern hospitality. The oystermen and fishermen living along the lonely beaches of the eastern shore of Maryland and Virginia; the surfmen and lighthouse keepers of Albemarle, Pamplico, and Core sounds, in North Carolina; the ground-nut planters who inhabit the uplands that skirt the network of creeks, marshes, ponds, and sounds from Bogue Inlet to Cape Fear; the piny-woods people, lumbermen, and turpentine distillers on the little bluffs that jut into the fastnesses of the great swamps of the crooked Waccamaw River; the representatives of the once powerful rice-planting aristocracy of the Santee and Peedee rivers; the colored men of the beautiful sea-islands along the coast of Georgia; The Floridians living between the St. Mary's River and the Suwanee -- the wild river of song; the islanders on the Gulf of Mexico where I terminated my long journey; -- all have contributed to make the 'Voyage of the Paper Canoe' a success."

After returning from this paper-canoe voyage, the author embarked alone, December 2, 1875, in a cedar duck-boat twelve feet in length, from the head of the Ohio River, at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and followed the Ohio and Mississippi rivers over two thousand miles to New Orleans, where he made a portage through that city eastwardly to Lake Pontchartrain, and rowed along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico six or seven hundred miles, to Cedar Keys, Florida, the terminus of his paper-canoe voyage.

While on these two voyages, the author rowed over five thousand miles, meeting with but one accident, the overturning of his canoe in Delaware Bay. He returned to his home with his boats in good condition, and his note-books, charts, &c., in an excellent state of preservation.

At the request of the "Board on behalf of the United States Executive Department" of the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia, the paper canoe "Maria Theresa," and the cedar duck-boat "Centennial Republic," were deposited in the Smithsonian Department of the United States Government building, during the summer and fall of 1876.

The maps, which show the route followed by the paper canoe, have been drawn and engraved by contract at the United States Coast Survey Bureau, and are on a scale of 1/1,500,000. As the work is based on the results of actual surveys, the maps may be considered, for their size, the most complete of the United States coast ever presented to the public.

Much credit is due to Messrs. Waud and Merrill for the artistic results of their pencils, and to Messrs. John Andrew & Son for their skill in engraving the illustrations.

To the readers of the author's first book of travels, "The Pampas and Andes: a Thousand Miles' Walk across South America," which journey was undertaken when he was but seventeen years of age, the writer would say that their many kind and appreciative letters have prompted him to send forth this second book of travels -- the "Voyage of the Paper Canoe."

LAKE GEORGE, WARREN COUNTY, N. Y., JANUARY 1, 1878.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. THE APPROACHES TO THE WATER-WAY OF THE CONTINENT.

ISLAND OF ST. PAUL. -- THE PORTALS OF THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. -- THE EXTINCT AUK. -- ANTICOSTI ISLAND. -- ICEBERGS. -- SAILORS' SUPERSTITIONS. -- THE ESTUARY OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. -- TADOUSAC. -- THE SAGUENAY RIVER. -- WHITE WHALES. -- QUEBEC.

CHAPTER II. FROM QUEBEC TO SOREL.

THE WATER WAY INTO THE CONTINENT. -- THE WESTERN AND THE SOUTHERN ROUTE TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. -- THE MAYETA. -- COMMENCEMENT OF THE VOYAGE. -- ASCENT of THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. -- LAKE. of ST. PETER. -- ACADIAN TOWN OF SOREL.

CHAPTER III. FROM THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER TO TICONDEROGA, LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

THE RICHELIEU RIVER. -- ACADIAN SCENES. -- ST. OURS. -- ST. ANTOINE. -- ST. MARKS. -- BELOEIL. -- CHAMBLY CANAL. -- ST. JOHNS. -- LAKE CHAMPLAIN. -- THE GREAT SHIP CANAL. -- DAVID BODFISH'S CAMP. -- THE ADIRONDACK SURVEY. -- A CANVAS BOAT. -- DIMENSIONS OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN. -- PORT KENT. -- AUSABLE CHASM. -- ARRIVAL AT TICONDEROGA.

CHAPTER IV. FROM LAKES GEORGE AND CHAMPLAIN TO THE HUDSON RIVER.

THE DISCOVERY OF LAKE GEORGE BY FATHER JOGUES. -- A PEDESTRIAN JOURNEY. -- THE HERMIT OF THE NARROWS. -- CONVENT OF ST. MARY'S of THE LAKE. -- THE PAULIST FATHERS. -- CANAL ROUTE FROM LAKE. CHAMPLAIN TO ALBANY. -- BODFISH RETURNS TO NEW JERSEY. -- THE LITTLE FLEET IN ITS HAVEN OF REST.

CHAPTER V. THE AMERICAN PAPER BOAT AND ENGLISH CANOES.

THE PECULIAR CHARACTER OF THE PAPER BOAT. -- THE HISTORY OF THE ADOPTION OF PAPER FOR BOATS. -- A BOY'S INGENUITY. -- THE PROCESS OF BUILDING PAPER BOATS DESCRIBED. -- COLLEGE CLUBS ADOPTING THEM. -- THE GREAT VICTORIES WON BY PAPER OVER WOODEN SHELLS IN 1876.

CHAPTER VI. FROM TROY TO PHILADELPHIA.

PAPER CANOE MARIA THERESA. -- THE START. -- THE DESCENT OF THE HUDSON RIVER. -- -- CROSSING THE UPPER BAY OF NEW YORK. -- PASSAGE OF THE KILLS. -- RARITAN RIVER. -- THE CANAL ROUTE FROM NEW BRUNSWICK TO THE DELAWARE RIVER. -- FROM BORDENTOWN TO PHILADELPHIA.

CHAPTER VII. FROM PHILADELPHIA TO CAPE HENLOPEN.

DESCENT OF DELAWARE RIVER. -- MY FIRST CAMP. -- BOMBAY HOOK. -- MURDERKILL CREEK. -- A STORM IN DELAWARE BAY. -- CAPSIZING OF THE CANOE. -- A SWIM FOR LIFE. -- THE PERSIMMON GROVE. -- WILLOW GROVE INN. -- THE LIGHTS OF CAPES MAY AND HENLOPEN.

CHAPTER VIII. FROM CAPE HENLOPEN TO NORFOLK, VIRGINIA.

THE PORTAGE TO LOVE CREEK. -- THE DELAWARE WHIPPINGPOST. -- REHOBOTH AND INDIAN RIVER BAYS. -- A PORTAGE TO LITTLE ASSAWAMAN BAY. -- ISLE OF WIGHT BAY. -- WINCHESTER PLANTATION. -- CHINCOTEAGUE. -- WATCHAPREAGUE INLET. -- COBB'S ISLAND. -- CHERRYSTONE. -- ARRIVAL AT NORFOLK. -- THE "LANDMARK'S" ENTERPRISE.

CHAPTER IX. FROM NORFOLK TO CAPE HATTERAS.

THE ELIZABETH RIVER. -- THE CANAL. -- NORTH LANDING RIVER. -- CURRITUCK SOUND. -- ROANOKE ISLAND. -- VISIT TO BODY ISLAND LIGHT -- HOUSE. -- A ROMANCE OF HISTORY. -- PAMPLICO SOUND. -- THE PAPER CANOE ARRIVES AT CAPE HATTERAS.

CHAPTER X. FROM CAPE HATTERAS TO CAPE FEAR, NORTH CAROLINA.

CAPE HATTERAS LIGHT. -- HABITS OF BIRDS. - STORM AT HATTERAS INLET. -MILES OF WRECKS. -THE YACHT JULIA SEARCHING FOR THE PAPER CANOE. -- CHASED BY PORPOISES. -- MARSH TACKIES. - OCRACOKE INLET. - A GRAVEYARD BEING SWALLOWED UP BY THE SEA. -- CORE SOUND. -- THREE WEDDINGS AT HUNTING QUARTERS. - MOREHEAD CITY. -- NEWBERN. - SWANSBORO. - A PEANUT PLANTATION. -- THE ROUTE TO CAPE FEAR.

CHAPTER XI. FROM CAPE FEAR TO CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA.

A PORTAGE TO LAKE WACCAMAW. -- SUBMERGED SWAMPS. -- NIGHT AT A TURPENTINE DISTILLERY. -- A DISMAL WILDERNESS. -- OWLS AND MISTLETOE. -- CRACKERS AND NEGROES. -- ACROSS THE SOUTH CAROLINA LINE. -- A CRACKER'S IDEA OF HOSPITALITY. -- POT BLUFF. -- PEEDEE RIVER. -- GEORGETOWN. -- WINYAH BAY. -- THE RICE PLANTATIONS OF THE SANTEE RIVERS. -- A NIGHT WITH THE SANTEE NEGROES. -- ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON.

CHAPTER XII. FROM CHARLESTON TO SAVANNAH, GEORGIA.

THE INTERIOR WATER ROUTE TO JEHOSSEE ISLAND. -- GOVERNOR AIKEN'S MODEL RICE PLANTATION. -- LOST IN THE HORNS. -- ST. HELENA SOUND. -- LOST IN THE NIGHT. -- THE PHANTOM SHIP. -- THE FINLANDER'S WELCOME. -- A NIGHT ON THE EMPEROR'S OLD YACHT. -- THE PHOSPHATE MINES. -- COOSAW AND BROAD RIVERS. -- PORT ROYAL SOUND AND CALIBOGUE SOUND. -- CUFFY'S HOME. -- ARRIVAL IN GEORGIA. -- RECEPTIONS AT GREENWICH SHOOTING-PARK.

CHAPTER XIII. FROM THE SAVANNAH RIVER TO FLORIDA.

ROUTE TO THE SEA ISLANDS OF GEORGIA. -- STORM-BOUND ON GREEN ISLAND. -- OSSABAW ISLAND. -- ST. CATHERINE'S SOUND. -- SAPELO ISLAND. -- THE MUD OF MUD RIVER. -- NIGHT IN A NEGRO CABIN. -- "DE SHOUTINGS" ON DOBOY ISLAND. -- BROUGHTON ISLAND. -- ST. SIMON'S AND JEKYL ISLANDS. -- INTERVIEW WITH AN ALLIGATOR. -- A NIGHT IN JOINTER HAMMOCK. -- CUMBERLAND ISLAND AND ST. MARY'S RIVER. -- FAREWELL TO THE SEA.

CHAPTER XIV. ST. MARYS RIVER AND THE SUWANEE WILDERNESS

A PORTAGE TO DUTTON. -- DESCENT OF THE ST. MARY'S RIVER. -- FETE GIVEN BY THE CITIZENS TO THE PAPER CANOE. -- THE PROPOSED CANAL ROUTE ACROSS FLORIDA. - PORTAGE TO THE SUWANEE RIVER. -- A NEGRO SPEAKS ON ELECTRICITY AND THE TELEGRAPH. -- A FREEDMAN'S SERMON.

CHAPTER XV. DOWN UPON THE SUWANEE RIVER.

THE RICH FOLIAGE OF THE RIVER. -- COLUMBUS. - ROLINS' BLUFF. -- OLD TOWN HAMMOCK. - A HUNTER KILLED BY A PANTHER. -- DANGEROUS SERPENTS. -- CLAY LANDING. -- THE MARSHES OF THE COAST. -- BRADFORD'S ISLAND. -- MY LAST CAMP. -- THE VOYAGE ENDED.

LIST OF MAPS DRAWN AND ENGRAVED AT THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY BUREAU, FOR THE "VOYAGE OF THE PAPER CANOE."

GENERAL MAP OF ROUTES FOLLOWED BY THE AUTHOR DURING TWO VOYAGES MADE TO THE GULF OF MEXICO

GUIDE MAPS OF CANOE ROUTE.

FROM QUEBEC, CANADA, TO PLATTSBURGH, NEW YORK STATE

FROM PLATTSBURGH TO ALBANY

FROM ALBANY TO NEW YORK CITY

FROM NEW YORK CITY TO CAPE HENLOPEN, DELAWARE

FROM CAPE HENLOPEN, DELAWARE, TO NORFOLK, VIRGINIA

FROM NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, TO BOGUE INLET, NORTH CAROLINA

FROM BOGUE INLET, NORTH CAROLINA, TO BULL'S BAY, SOUTH CAROLINA

FROM BULL'S BAY, SOUTH CAROLINA, TO ST. SIMON'S SOUND, GEORGIA

FROM ST. SIMON'S SOUND, GEORGIA, TO CEDAR KEYS, FLORIDA

ILLUSTRATIONS. ENGRAVED By John ANDREW & SON.

GREAT AUK (Alca impennis). Extinct. ANCHORED AT LAST A FULL-RIGGED NAUTILUS CANOE THE ROB ROY CANOE THE ABORIGINAL TYPE

Photographed at Disco, Greenland.

THE IMPROVED TYPE. -- PAPER CANOE MARIA THERESA A CAPSIZE IN DELAWARE BAY DELAWARE WHIPPING-POST AND PILLORY BODY ISLAND LIGHT HOUSE CROSSING HATTERAS INLET RECEPTION AT CHARLESTON POST-OFFICE HOME OF THE ALLIGATOR THE PANTHER'S LEAP THE VOYAGE ENDED

CHAPTER I. THE APPROACHES TO THE WATER-WAY OF THE CONTINENT.

ISLAND OF ST. PAUL. -- THE PORTALS OF THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. -- THE EXTINCT AUK. -- ANTICOSTI ISLAND. -- ICEBERGS. -- SAILORS' SUPERSTITIONS. -- THE ESTUARY OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. -- TADOUSAC. -- THE SAGUENAY RIVER. -- WHITE WHALES. -- QUEBEC.

While on his passage to the ports of the St. Lawrence River, the mariner first sights the little island of St. Paul, situated in the waste of waters between Cape Ray, the southwestern point of Newfoundland on the north, and Cape North, the northeastern projection of Cape Breton Island on the south. Across this entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence from cape to cape is a distance of fifty-four nautical miles; and about twelve miles east-northeast from Cape North the island of St. Paul, with its three hills and two light-towers, rises from the sea with deep waters on every side.

This wide inlet into the gulf may be called the middle portal, for at the northern end of Newfoundland, between the great island and the coast of Labrador, another entrance exists, which is known as the Straits of Belle Isle, and is sometimes called "the shorter passage from England." Still to the south of the middle entrance is another and a very narrow one, known as the Gut of Canso, which separates the island of Cape Breton from Nova Scotia. Through this contracted thoroughfare the tides run with great force.

One hundred years ago, as the seaman approached the dangerous entrance of St. Paul, now brightened at night by its light-towers, his heart was cheered by the sight of immense flocks of a peculiar sea-fowl, now extinct. When he saw upon the water the Great Auk (Alca impennis), which he ignorantly called "a pengwin," he knew that land was near at hand, for while he met other species far out upon the broad Atlantic, the Great Auk, his "pengwin," kept near the coast. Not only was this now extinct bird his indicator of proximity to the land, but so strange were its habits, and so innocent was its nature, that it permitted itself to be captured by boat-loads; and thus were the ships re-victualled at little cost or trouble. Without any market-value a century ago, the Great Auk now, as a stuffed skin, represents a value of fifteen hundred dollars in gold. There are but seventy-two specimens of this bird in the museums of Europe and America, besides a few skeletons, and sixty-five of its eggs. It was called in ancient days Gare-fowl, and was the Goiful of the Icelander.